Building tips for all eras of war.

Introduction

Hi, I see you've clicked on this guide to building tanks in almost all ways. I hope you like this guide for it's abilities and have really good looking and performing tanks.

You can skip to any section in this guide since it doesn't really matter, as long as you learn from it it'll be fine. You can also visit the outdated section for tips that didn't work so well.

Feel free to take as many inspiration from the tanks displayed in this guide, it's there to look at.

NOTE:

The functional build part of this guide is currently of making, if you could please contribute to helping me build this (guide, cosmetic tips included) it would really be helpful and it may help lot's of other people.

If you want you can make it on the contributors section at the end of the guide. Sorry but you can't make it a real contributor since I don't trust online persons.

Also I want to say that I made this as a sort of a reminder to what you can do in this game, don't shame me to much if you don't like it, just tell me and I'll fix it.

VERY USEFUL TO KNOW:

Correct me if I'm wrong, and I may be very wrong, but when the game talks about interwar, earlywar ect, it says interwar OF WWI, earlywar OF WWI. Just saying, and still I'm not sure myself if I'm correct, please give justification.

This guide is in it's possibly earliest stages in life, I swear I will NOT abandon this guide, no matter what. Enjoy

Introduction To Cosmetic Designs

The sections below are all about the design to cosmetics and realistic things that would be on a real tank. Like smoke detonators, since this game doesn't have them.

World War I & Interwar

This section is all about the WWI and Interwar design of cosmetics on tanks.

On your tanks, you want rivets. Here I've got a B4 Bratten and notice where it's covered in rivets in these photos here \/

1. It's always covered all around the turret/hull, and must be put on every face.

2. when the space is to long add rivets in the centre of the gap, but always horizontal (if looking from a birds eye).

This is also the same with the PzKpfw 22C and any other WWI to Interwar period tanks:

(For outdated section here, visit Panels and air purifiers outdate.)

When choosing wheels and other mobile-related things you want to apply these rules:

1. Always equip the Mark IV or Big Cat Track Segment, it's in ALL Interwar and WWI tank designs.

2. Always have return rollers, every tank in these eras have some. See below.

3. Always, when building long British-looking tanks, add all your wheels to look like the default return roller wheel. I just saw it on all the really long tanks, and they were all British except for the model 1 heavy. It can be the same for shorter tanks as well. See below.

4. Don't use the StrvM42 (round) sprocket, instead, use the Cromwell sprocket or the Tiger sprocket because I haven't seen the StrvM42 sprocket on any WWI or Interwar tanks, but use mainly the Tiger sprocket on WWI vehicles.

You don't really have to listen to rule 3, you should also though use the T34 roadwheel in any of these eras, the choice is yours.

unfinished part of this guide

Since the invention of fenders (sometimes called spaced armour https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spaced_armour) it is vital for most modern tanks to have something protecting there sides from incoming shells. However, we, right now, are in the WWI/Interwar period of tanks and are going to build track armour or side skirts. Either one works.

So first, let's review some components commonly used on these periods we are working on now. There are common tread and wheel armour layouts:

1. Side skirts, usually found fully covering the bigger longer tanks but also can be arranged to only cover the sides next to the return rollers (pictured below).

2. Mud chutes, found as a replacement for side skirts that sits under return rollers. As the name states, it catches mud and throws it somewhere else (pictured above).

3. Fenders, although not really thrown on top of tank's treads in WWI, not common on the British heavies (typically WWI), is sometimes added for extra protection.

Now, this part is specifically to the 0.2 tank design since you can't make a slow WWI feeling tank in it, this tells you how! Convenient.

SO, first go into your gear settings and turn your drive gear amount down to around 3 and your reverse gear amount down to around 2.

Then set your highest drive gear to approximately 7 and your highest reverse gear to around 8, then you can just press G1/n which will normal your gears out. You wouldn't do this for any other era of tanks since you would manually type this out to get the best result.

Lastly set your engine cylinder amount from 4 to 6, no more and no less unless you want a different speed. You can vary the gear settings however you like, play around with them a bit.

And that should be your engine and gear settings! Here are mine:

Gears 1 layout:

Gears 2 layout:

The most interesting WWI/interwar tanks use other features to enhance their war abilities like trench crossing tails and other things.

On mainly WWI tanks, you'll find things like, trench crossing tails, fenders, cannon cleaners, ect. in fact, in every single WWI tank I see I see these components.

There is also a lot of scaled down vents, fire extinguishers and more stuff like that. You also have overhanging commander cupolas, in which you sort of put it off to the side a bit kind of off the turret. This is generally wanted when you have small turret tops.

You don't really see this technique on just hulls since hulls are bigger and wider than turrets in the interwar and WWI period, but you can if you want. There is nothing from stopping you and who knows, maybe it'll look better on all your turret-less tanks.

Early-war

Mid-war

Late-war

World War II

Late World War II

Conclusion To Cosmetic Designs

Introduction To Functional Designs

WWI Designs

Inter-war Designs

Early-war

Mid-war Designs

Late-war Designs

WWII Designs

Conclusion To Functional Designs

Outdated Cosmetic Designs

This is a section for outdated things.

Panels and air purifiers outdate

However the Geometric Internals/0.2 update doesn't have rivets, so here are 1 or more ways you can do that.

Using air purifiers:

Since you can't use rivets in 0.2 you have to come up with another idea, that idea is probably using air purifiers since the're the only thing that's closest looking to rivets.

Here I've got a bunch of miniature air purifiers scaled all the way down to make big looking rivets. Sadly you can't scale down more than this + you have to place individually:

I follow the same rules here, it's always covered all around the turret/hull on every face and when the space is to long I add rivets in the centre of the gap.

Using riveted panels:

In 0.2, (or in the real game, doesn't matter) you can also use riveted panels as your WWI/interwar decor. On this tank I use the 2 riveted panels everywhere on the tank and place them in even spots:

I also space them nice and evenly, making sure to fill in all the cracks while still using the 2 different types of panels, the square one mainly.

I go around the decals since it looks better in my opinion, do whatever you want. These panels are just looks no extra armour is being added.

This trick is better in 0.2 since, you know, lack of actual rivets.

Outdated Functional Designs

Conclusion

Thank you for listening and enjoying this guide, there will be more and there will be a better conclusion. Have a good day everyone and enjoy blasting projectiles at other moving metal blocks.

Contributors

Here's a list of all the people who have helped me build (not edit but put tips in the discussion below) this guide under their asking:

1.

https://steamcommunity.com/app/1674170/discussions/0/4758704514232372940/

above is the discussion I was talking about

Source: https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=3241971951					

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